Paphiopedilum hookerae

Paph. hookerae is one of the most intriguing and beautiful specie from Borneo. It's in the Barbata section of the slipper orchid. The leaf is typical of the group with contrasting silvery light and dark green. There is slight variation on the leaf as some clone has more blueish over all hue while other has more green hue. You will get more beautiful foliage if you grow it under low light, but just enough exposure needed to induce bloom.

What set hookerae apart from other species from the same group is the weird flower. Pouch from this group typically has a pointed 'V' shaped lip. The pouch of hookerae has a smaller than usual opening and it blow up in the mid section resembling the pouch of North American pitcher plant. The petal is 'Paddle' shaped and held slightly below 45 degree angle and its dark green base with bright purple or amethyst to the tip. The dorsal is solid light green with lighter green around margin.

Paph. hookerae is one of the slowest growing paphiopedilum specie. The new growth typically take about two years to get mature on normal healthy plant, which is still alot faster than some of the notorious paph species like stonei, mastersianum and emersonii. It doesn't produce many new growths like other members of Barbata section, so you will rarely see a specieman plant of hookerae with multiple flowering spikes. It also like less fertilizer than its' cousins and need fresh medium for optimal growth. I recommend repotting this specie every year. It also a warm grower and prefer temperature above 65 degree year round. The flower spike is long and very slow growing and take usually about two months or more before it bloom. The flower last over 6 weeks, but I normally cut of the spike after 4 weeks to conserve energy for the plant.

Due to its slow growth and seed germination, hookerae is hard to find from vendors and its more expansive than average paph species. You can expect to pay anywhere from $75-100 for a plant and there is no guarantee it will be a mature blooming plant. You might have to search a bit for reputable vendor and even if you manage to get a hand on a seedling, be prepare for a little patient as it will take one or two more years to get mature than its cousin like barbata, appletonianum, purpurantum, etc. Never the less, if you manage to get one it will delight you with its beautiful flower and interesting leaf. All you need is a little patient and attend to its careful, but not overly demanding culture.

Phaius flavus (The Golden Nun Orchid)

Phaius flavus is a member of the so-called nun orchid and in my own opinion, it is the loveliest specie. It is not as commonly grown as Pha. tankervilleae, which pretty grown in any warm weather places as landscape plant. The plant originate from mid-high elevation of Himalayas India, Assam, Nepal, South East Asia, Philippines, to as far north as Kyushu Island of Japan and as far south New Guinea.

The leaf of flavus is 3-4 feet long and up to 12" wide and resemble a small palm tree. It may or may not be dotted with white spot. The bulb is 2-4 inch big and shaped like a pear. The flower stalk arise from the base of the bulb and borne up to 20 flowers or more. The flower color range from sulphur yellow to deep yellow and have a orange tipped lip. The flower last a lot longer than Ph. tankervilleae or mishmensis; up to about 2 weeks or more. I keep my plant moist throughout the year it retain the leaf till next spring. But some grower give it a dry winter rest and it will shed the leaf. Ph. flavus will tolerate either ways. Just give it low light because the leaf are very thin and can burn easily from the Sun and it will bloom as soon as the bulb is matured, which usually by July or August in my case.

Larch in Fall

Siberian larch (Larix sibirica) in my backyard in fall. This is a few of the conifer tree that shed leaf in fall. A great tree for its form and golden yellow fall color. The leaf is soft like a newly grown fresh grass and it is a fairly fast grower during young age and slow down as the tree mature around 10-15 years old. It like moist soil and a great tree for wet spot in the yard.

Cymbidium erythrostylum

I love Cymbidiums. Back where I came from in Myanmar, every spring there is nothing more majestic than seeing large pots of Cymbidium orchid cover with hundreds of bloom. Cym. lowianum, eburneum, parishii, hookerianum, tracyanum ... yellow/green, white, pink, green, red/brown, the color combinations is endless. Unfortunately, for most grower outside of the temperate climate and high elevation, growing and blooming them is a challenge.

Cymbidium require high light, and then several months of chilly nights as low as 10'C from August till the spike come in late winter to spring. Even then, the night temperature has to be remain cool until all the buds are open. This prove to be obstacle for grower in low land and tropic, and even harder for home grower because of its size and cool night requirement for blooming. Most cymbidium bulbs are about the size of tennis ball or larger and they easily fill up 12" pot quickly in one or two season. With their 3-4 feet long leafs and flower spikes, its almost impossible to accommodate them indoor for normal house.

Fortunately, there is one species from Vietnam that challenge the norm of the standard cymbidium. Cymbidium erythrostylum came from northern Vietnam is its one of the smallest species from the standard group. The plant has 1-2" bulb and leaf that stay under 24". Despite the small plant size, it carry 3" Iris like white bloom with yellow streaked lip. The spike can carry up to 12 flowers but, usually on average its between 5-8.

Not only Cym. erythrostylum is miniature in size compare to its big sisters, it's also one of the most warmth tolerent of the group. What I mean by warmth tolerant is that it still able to produce spike under intermediate condition; night temperature as high as 13-15 'C. It's also have unusual habit of blooming while the growth is getting mature compare to most normal cymbidium which bloom after the bulb is fully developed. For this reason Cym. erythrostylum usually blooms anywhere from May to August. Perfect for keeping it outdoor in northern hemisphere as we enjoy our BBQ and summer patio.

The Rhyncostylis (aka Foxtail Orchid)

Rhyncostylis is a genus of three species (gigantean, retusa, coelestis) that originate from South East Asia. The genus belongs to the Vanda alliance orchid and is very popular among growers in and out of tropic. They are commonly called ‘Fox Tail’ orchid because their dense influence resemble like one. Individual flower size range from 1-2.5 cm, but it’s their ability to produce multiple spikes with hundreds of flowers and its spicy citric like fragrance that catch orchid grower eyes. Two of the three species, Rhy. gigantea and retusa have white to pale pink blooms with various pink blotches. The third specie Rhy. coelestis has a white bloom that is flushed and tipped with dark lavender blue. All species are a very slower grower, and has leathery drought resistance leaf and generally more manageable than other member of Vanda family in term of size and ease of culture.

Light: All species require medium to high light; the same amount of light recommended for most Vanda and Ascocenda. Indoor, they can be grown at bright south, southeast or southwest facing windowsill or even under light due to their size. All can take full sun from fall to spring, but may need some light shading with sheer curtain during summer time, especially from 11am to 4pm. Under adequate light the leaf should be in medium green; about the same shade as ‘kiwi fruit flesh’ with some hint of red pigments.

Potting: Rhyncostylis are best potted in big clay pots with side draining holes or in large cedar baskets fill with large chunks of lava rocks, wine bottle corks or large barks that will last for at least 4-5 years. They can be also mounted because their flower spikes cascade from the plant. All hate being disturbed once they settle into a particular growing container. Plants are very slow grower and didn’t produce roots as quickly as other orchids like Cattleya or Cymbidium, so extra attention must be paid not to damage the roots too much when transplanting.

Watering and Feeding: Depending on where you grow them, most require daily watering during spring and summer months. If you grow them inside a greenhouse or window sill with high humidity, they might require less. As for feeding, you can fertilize them the same way you would for most Vandas. I feed mine every second watering during warmers months, and once every 3 weeks with ½ strength during dull winter days.

Temperature: All species originate in lowland to mid elevations and are intermediate to warm grower. Summer night is around 18-20’C with winter minimum of 14-16 ‘C is good enough. Rhy. gigantea and retusa are lowland species and will grow more robust in the warmer condition. Rhy. coelestis came from higher elevation and more suited to growing in intermediate condition and can take cooler nights for extended period.

Flowering: Rhy. gigantea and retusa blooms from fall to late winter, while Rhy. coelestis is a summer to fall bloomer. All species bloom typically once a year, but they do make up by sending out multiple spikes when the plants are big enough. Flower generally last about 2-3 weeks.

Ren. gigantean. This is the best well known member of the genus and the largest in term of both plant and flower size. Plant size can reach over a meter tall with large board leathery leafs, but it is generally a very slow grower and will stay compact for several years. Flower size is up to one inch and come in white with various degrees of pink spots to plum blotches, as well as pure white, red and orange.

Ren. retusa: The bloom in this specie is little bit over half inch, but it more than make up what it lacks in size by having numerous blooms on a flower spike up to 2 feet long. Bloom color is white to pale rose with minute rose spots. The growth habit is very stubby and compact and rarely exceed over six inch at a time.

Ren. coelestis: This is the only member in the genus that has an erect flower spike. Both the leaf and plant size resemble more like small vanda. The bloom color is also very unique and lacks any spotting. They are white, tipped and blushed with various degree of lavender blue.

Growing Dendrobium Formosae Species.

Dendrobium is a very diverse genus with over 1000+ species and you are bound to find at least one species in every orchid collection. In my opinion, you have not been growing orchids until you try at least one even if you managed to kill it. Bear in mind, it will take a total negligence to bring these tough plants to their demise. Once you have grown and bloomed one successfully, you will only want to get more and more. Since it’s a big genus, plants of similar species are group into several sections. And one of the most beautiful and greatly rewarding sections to grow is the section ‘Formosae’. Species of this section are characteristics by evergreen leaf that carry though the first winter (although they may shed a few, but not completely like Nobile type) and short fuzzy black hairs on the lower base of the cane and leaf sheaths. Flowers are usually borne on the uppermost nodes of the cane in a cluster with up to 10 or more blooms, depending on the species. The size of the bloom range from 1” to 4” and are very long lasting, up to 6 weeks or more.

Light: The optimum level of light for this section is bright medium light (slightly lower than the level recommended for the Cattleyas and Oncidium). Smaller species such as Den. bellatulum and christyanum can be grown under light. On windowsill, un-shaded east window is the best, follow by shaded south or southeast window.

Water and Feeding: Formosae dendrobium requires water year round with heavy feeding during the active growing season using fertilizer high in nitrogen content. Keep in mind, they don’t really have distinct resting period like the Nobile or Callista group. New growth can emerges any time of the year, even in winter time and they may continue to grow or stop for a few weeks and continue again once the favourable condition are meet. You can keep it slightly dry for a day or two between watering once the growth is completed, but it’s not recommended to keep it bone dry for more than a week. When the plant are setting bud or flowering, keep the humidity level high by watering as soon as the plant get dry or misting lightly on the roots and plant. Try not to get any water on the bud, as it can cause ugly spotting or worse, bud blast.

Flowering: All species from this group blooms as soon as the growth matured or shortly after. They usually bloom on the upper most nodes of the cane in a cluster of 1-5 flowers, to as much as 10 or more in some species like Den.deareii. All most all the species have papery crystalline white flower. The bloom can be pure white or with various degree of yellow or green blush and most flowers have coloured throats in combination of yellow, orange, red and/or purple. A few species such as Den. lowii and trigonopus have golden yellow blooms.

Potting: All species from this group like fast draining potting mix that somewhat retain a little moisture and good air movement. Clay pots with side holes or wood baskets are preferable because most species tend to get top heavy with their long canes and heavy blooms. I use a medium bark potting mix with equal part of course charcoal, lava rock/perlite and 10% coconut husk. If you have a greenhouse or sunroom with high humidity, you can mount the plants and let the canes drop and roam free naturally. Smaller species such as bellatulum and christyanum are best mounted. All species from this section like to be pot bound.

Temperature: All species from this section like even temperature year round and since they don’t have long resting periods, there is no need for big drastic temperature fluctuation between summer and winter like the Nobile type. Most are intermediate grower with a few species that prefer slight cooler or warmer temperature.

Cool-Intermediate grower: (10-13’C) bellatulum, christyanum, infundibulum

Intermediate grower: (14-15’C) sanderae, lowii, draconis, trigonopus, williamsonii, wattii, virgineum, longicornu, spectisismum, tobaense,

Intermediate-Warm grower: (16-18’C) deareii, schuetzei, formosum, cerutum, scabrilinguis

Recommended Species:

Den. sanderae (& varieties): an intermediate grower with up to a meter long cane with short 3-4” leaf. Long lasting flowers are borne in a cluster on the uppermost of the cane from early spring to late fall. This specie has several forms and best known and widely grown varieties are sanderae var. Major and var. Luzonica. Flowers are 2-3” with large flaring lip that is flushed with purple in the variety major and just a hint of green in later one.

Den. schuetzei: a warm compact grower with 6-10” spindle shaped cane. 2-3” flowers are borne on the upper node and they are off white to ivory color with a green speckle throat. This specie usually flowers in spring to early summer.

Den. infundibulum: a cool grower with slender canes that are up to 2 feet long. 3-4” Flowers are white with small lip and a yellow throat. Petals are slightly wavy and have crystalline texture. The plant usually flowers in late winter to spring.

Den. bellatulum: a mini species that rarely grow bigger than 3-4”. The 1 to 1.5” white flower has a very large yellow-orange colored lip that deepened as the flower age. The plant can be grown under light and slight short dry rest in intermediate to cool condition.

Den. draconis: unlike other species from this section, this intermediate grower has a citric fragrance. The canes are up to 20” long and the waxy white flower has red streaked lip. All petals, sepals and the ruffled lip are pointed and slight curved.

Japanese Maple in Canadian Prairies? No way!

I have been to Vancouver, Canada so many times and love it there. Not because it is a great city; because its a great place for gardening. The city is so green and every house's front yard is a work of art. Well most anyway. And every house has some kind of Japanese maple in every shade, color and form that you can think of. I was wishing how great would it be if I live in this city.

About 6 years I purchased a little Asian maple tree tagged as Acer pseudosieboldianum from the local garden center. The little tree is about 4 feet tall and have a very unique full moon like leaf. For twenty bucks I though this will make a nice patio plant. So plant sit in front patio for an entire summer and by fall, I moved the pot to the back yard knowing it wouldn't survive our harsh -30 winter. Fast forward 6 months later and while I was doing a spring clean up in the backyard, I noticed the plant is pushing out new leaf. What a surprise. This tough little guy had survived the old man winter. I google about this plant and found out Acer pseudosieboldianum is a relative of more commonly grown Japanese maple Acer palmatum and originated from Korea. It's native to more in land and adapted to harsher continental weather. It also more cold tolerant and display fall color as showy as its' cousin.

So I took the plant out of the pot, find a good shelter spot in the south west corner of the backyard and planted there. It's nicely shaded by a Spruce tree, a few Aspens and the Ohio Buckeye tree. Since than my little Korean maple has never fail to reward me yearly with it nice green leafs in spring and summer and fiery fall color in shade of orange, red and crimson in autumn. Asian maple like moist organic rich loamy soil and hate the wind and mid afternoon sun. As long as you can provide a shelter spot from the prairie wind, mid day heat and water generously throughout the growing season it will do just fine.